ARCHITEXTURE: Bespoke in Blue

February 26, 2018 Jill Lawrence

Made to measure, unique with the use of new materials speak loudly to both the environment and the body which they cloak.

Composite Image ©TheDenimEye,  centre ©Aina Beck — Composite Image ©TheDenimEye, centre ©Aina Beck

The Gugenheim museum in Bilbao made from puffy irridecsent titanium sheets clearly has a huge influence on metallic coated denims in similar strict yet undulating shapes.

Undulations continue on the body by bias cutting indigo and using lycra* to form the desired shape. Rigid indigo forms itself in stiffly curling shapes to both enhance the figure beneath and create sculpture from without.

Big bias cut shapes and front pleats contain volume in brightest indigo. Clear geometric shapes could be seen as influence or indeed bias cutting an influence on architecture. Either way there is a great deal of interaction and inter-influence between contemporary indigo textiles and architecture.

ARCHITEXTURE: Bold Big Ideas. Big Textures.

February 19, 2018 Jill Lawrence

Massive, bold, uncompromising scale of indigo patterns in technical finishes and stretch which distorts.

Repeating motifs echo repeating shapes and lattice effects in contemporary architecture.

Did basketry come first or did the creative textile come first. Whichever it is they both have a hand crafted yet hugely modern vibe.

Straight and manipulated bentwood lines make both the lived in environment and influence on the worn indigo clothing chic and simply modern.

ARCHITEXTURE: Strictly in Blue

February 12, 2018 Jill Lawrence

Indigo geometry is enjoying a renaissance influenced by the harder stuff which surrounds us.

Indigo prints and jacquards were much used and loved in South Asian and South American culture when their origins were from historical ornament. Again we use the same jacquard ornamentation but now influenced by a more contemporary environment.

Tiles and patterns match in indigo. strict patterns work for clean cut indigo pieces.

More complex jacquards in double faced and quilted cloths give the distinct impression of architectural origins. For structured simply cut jackets to showcase the pattern and fabric without interference of the stonewash effect.

Varying scales and different weights in indigo patterns layered for intrigue. Technical fibres and fabrics combined with geometry have a strictness which emanates from architecture as an influence. Issy Miyake is one of the most inventive exponents of such layered geometric statements.

TREND ALERT - ARCHITEXTURE : Archi Influences

February 5, 2018 Jill Lawrence

This simple trend showcases bold statements in indigo "clothing" rather than just jeans. The purity of organic indigo sits in harmony alongside organic and brutalist creative architectural shapes, lines and spaces.

Lines and cellular structures which divide spaces likewise divide indigo shapes and complex layers. The use of zippers is an important hardwear feature to echo shutters and building grids.

Contemporary structured cuts outs in denim clothing echo the same from the built environment. Geometric shapes in rigid denim which will be dry cleaned to retain its crispness.

Stripes, lines, tucks and diagonal twists look new in indigo and strictly essential in our surroundings.

What's interesting about the link between architecture and denim clothing is the stiffness of denim fabric before cutting and washing and its ability to be tailored into strict shapes for a new wave of strict casual smart denim - a move on from casual chic jeanswear.

Trend Alert: Edge of Architecture, Edge of Cool

October 3, 2016 Jill Lawrence

Geometry and clean lines are essential for contemporary denims. Shapes not normally associated with jeans-wear lend a higher fashion attitude. Architectural influenced structure. Unusual and clever cutting. Simple clean dark denims, coatings make a difference. Ecru and white play key roles alongside dark indigos. Gathering and layering increase the role of lighter weights. Simple neat chic and tidy. Minimal style detail just clean cuts. Urban denim pieces work across all fashion. Combine denim and leather in unusual combos. Coating lends an edge to sharp tailoring.

Coated denims live alongside laundry- coated denim, each have their own reason to be. Coatings on fabrics can change the colour, lock in the colour, and add body and volume. Coated jeans can be more soft and supple with discrete or high shine in any colour. Coated jeans allow inventory flexibility. Coatings achieve impermeability with breathability for functional denim. Shine is less obvious and leathers more real. Lustre and glow rather than high shine. Coated jeans with front crease for urbanites. Sleek and slick denims gain a city edge with coated finishes.

Linear, clean, structured urban masculine patterns in dark indigo-laser achieved. Straight and simple,no wear and tear-keep it clean and simple. Light coating for clean shapes. Permanent front crease washes white in the laundry.

Fine warp lines, slubs not streaks. Cords and piques, suiting dobbies. Light stretch for slim, not tight shapes. Light coateds with discrete shine. Blues are dark to bright. Tweed denims with discrete slubs. Neps and nubs plus light stretch. Mini patterns and new dobbies. Marled and mélange warps and wefts.