Military

January 26, 2017 Jill Lawrence

Uniforms are truly genderless. Once made from cotton drill and heavy functional flannel they are now made in lighter weights, khaki cotton twills and denims. It is mainly the styling details and the insignia that lend military attitude. Badges for fun that lend a message.

It is the style details which dominate creating military overtones to the garment - giant patch pockets; buttoned pocket flaps; drawstring pull on jackets; the flying suit - and of course the military leather jacket as the essential accessory.

The contrast between two simple military garments couldn't be more marked. One is simple, structured and tailored with strict red piping and military buttons the other is unadorned indigo denim simple sailors jacket from Nimes. Yet they are both indigo denim demonstrating two sides of the same style question.

Work Ethic

January 16, 2017 Jill Lawrence

Work style denims are truly without gender since being worn by factory workers in the USA in the early 1900's. None more so than the ubiquitous boiler suit. Once crafted in heavy weight durable 3x1 twill indigo denim and brown duck cloth it is now made from lighter weight denims with added style details as a fashion garment for both genders. Likewise the ticking workers jacket originally from the Osh Kosh USA brand is now a must for a denim fashion statement in all kinds of denim.

Work style indigo originated in Japan and China with simple or little detail except for function. Once in padded indigo quilted cotton now in light weight indigo styled like the simple Japanese pyjama. They are truly genderless and more attractive for being so.

L: ©Indigo the colour that changed the world R: ©I AND ME

Workers aprons; workers bags and simple Asian work jackets have become part of our genderless denim fashion arena. Anything and everything can be and now is made from indigo denim taking inspiration from the past - in this case the old work ethic.

Top Right: ©Worn 2 Bottom Right: ©Indigo the colour that changed the world

Trend Direction: NANTUCKET

August 22, 2016 Jill Lawrence

Vintage: Nantucket

Levi red vintage jacket in ring spun denim with a green casted shade. The green cast is due to the natural brown cotton weft affecting the indigo warp shade.

The shape is asymmetrical with tidy details of arrowhead pocket finishing and overstitched seams for greater emphasis of the unusual styling. The back is shorter than the front giving a gamine look.

1940's vintage US navy striped denim jacket with practical short sleeves.

©LightningArchives "Vintage Denim" 10/09/2014