WORKWEAR REVOLUTION: Workwear Origins

Indigo denims started life in the 1800's as work garments and denim style has come a long way since then embracing every shape and fit demanded by fashion trends. Paradoxically the origins of workwear denim and style continue to influence fashion denim even now.  Rough textured coarse indigos tinted brown to emulate a "weathered" look and worn torn edges to represent the real original are just two examples of what we do to cheat our way back into history in re-generated styles that fit better than the originals.

composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

The romance of indigo was born in many cultures in different ways, from Japanese kimonos to French artisan overalls to American factory and railroad workers. Many such vintage items that still exist are the more charming due to piecing and patching over generations with denim or other local fabrics.. Such garments are now preserved in museums but their spirit lives on in styles and shapes aped by contemporary fashion designers. 

What is remarkable is the way in  which the indigo colour has been either preserved or has faded whilst still retaining its amazing hue.

composite image ©TheDenimEye2017

Styles that live on are dominated by the cover-all / flying suit /over-all i.e., originally an all-in-one protection. Now massively popular in denim fashion, RTW and expensive couture versions. More popular than it has ever been, but not for work!    The bib n' brace or dungaree comes and goes in fashion popularity, currently enjoying one of its many revivals mainly in denim or plain cottons enhanced by contrast patching which amusingly emulates the originals.         Enjoying a parallel revival are cotton cords, ribs, ridges, ticking stripes and herringbone tweeds, all reminiscent of vintage workwear.

©LevisStrauss

The original work jean was popluarised by Levi Strauss in the late 1800's. This quickly became the cowboy jean with which we are all too familiar now approximately 150 years later.    The denims are likewise little changed such that Levi closely guards and protects both shape and denim technology continuing to achieve the original looks.

GStar | Source Denim

G-Star

 Just the product

©G-Star

Attention to their social and environmental responsibility goes beyond “just the product”. The clue is in the name – RAW! The brand started by marketing only RAW (unwashed) products in order to not only tap into fashion denim but also to promote denim produced with minimum chemicals and water.

Although the product has gone way beyond the raw concept, G-Star still remain committed to being responsible producers of what has been historically a very dirty product for all who produce both denim and jeans.

Along with collaborator Pharell Williams, G-Star launched the RAW for the Ocean collection. The products in the collection are all derived from ocean plastic which is broken down and woven with other materials to create the fabrics. The fabrics are developed in collaboration with textile company Bionic Yarn and environmental group Parley for the Oceans – an initiative that raises awareness and encourages creatives to repurpose ocean waste.

The four pillars of G Star responsibility are : Responsible supply chain – making sure their suppliers adhere to international law and social responsibilities. Making an environmentally sustainable product. Adhering to sustainable operations within their manufacturing facilities. Community involvement in their locations of manufacture.

Since 2011 G Star have a partnership with MADE-BY which is a multi stake holder organisation supporting brands in implementing strategies to improve environmental and social conditions in the fashion industry. 

SOURCE Denim

Comfortable. Durable. Sustainable. That’s better denim.

©SourceDenim

Denim that is “built” tough enough to last whilst being gentle on the planet and the people.

Denims used by SOURCE are produced using biodegradable materials replacing all harsh chemicals in denim production. SOURCE Denim boasts a 50% less chemical, water and energy use in every pair of jeans. All jeans are 100% organic cotton. None of SOURCE jeans are laundry pre-processed with no artificial distressing, washing and chemical treatments.  All are sold raw for self wearing in. This means that the water and chemical usage in SOURCE jeans is minimal. The cuts and fibre blends are designed for easy wear for an active lifestyle.

SOURCE denim jeans are made in their family owned workshop in LA which supports more than 100 workers all working under international health and safety guidelines. They collaborate with environmental associations for a better planet. SOURCE Denim gives support to: International Rivers Association – ensuring quality and quantity of water and the Washington Trails Association – helping to keep he trails clear and environment clean. 

Denim Digest: Washing your Jeans

There are many myths and legends out there regarding when you should wash your jeans, how often or if you should wash them at all. Today we hope to dis-spell some of these urban legends and pass on some top tips from a denim expert.

Let's start with the initial wash and how to achieve the perfect shrink to fit size.

1. You first need to first consider the make up of your jeans, as this will determine the rate at which they will shrink.  In general, you will lose around 1-3 inches in length and up to an inch from the waist. ( Don't worry if this all sounds like gibberish to you, pop into your nearest specialist denim shop and ask their advice. )

2. The next step is to soak them and this can be done in three different ways. First for the denim purists we have the bath tub method. The idea behind this is that the jeans will shrink and mould to your body as you sit in the bath, but careful to watch the length as this can sometimes have a mind of its own when it comes to shrinking, and you don't want to end up with a new pair of shorts! If you don't feel like sitting in the bath then the alternative options are to turn the jeans inside out and let them soak in the bath in lukewarm water for about 30 minutes, swish the jeans about to help the cotton absorb the water and allow the shrinkage to happen. You could also put them in a warm machine wash with no soap, which proves quite effective. However try to avoid the spin cycle and tumble drying as these can leave vertical creases in a new pair. For best results we recommend doing at least two soaks.

3. Leave to air-dry and hey presto you've got the perfect shrink to fit jeans.

So the next question is how often should I wash my jeans as I begin to wear them?

 Well the answer to this depends on how quickly and how much you want your jeans to fade. Wash your jeans more often for a less dramatic contrast in the creases and to achieve a vintage fade. And vice versa wash less often for higher contrast at creases and points of wear. Some like to wash their jeans regularly, some not at all - some who prefer to never to wash their jeans and allow them to wear down naturally over time, and then there are those who yearn for a soft and faded pair of baggies - that is the joy of denim it has so many options and variables depending on your personal choice and and style. 

 It is really a matter of choice. However, I would recommend minimal washing in order to save water.  In a future trend month we will share just how much indigo denim jeans are helping to destroy the planet by using too much water, chemicals, energy.

 If you do wish to wash then always turn the jeans inside out.  Always wash on a short cold cycle with NO DETERGENT as this will always degrade the colour even if the powder claims to be non-bio, there is always a brightening enzyme in there.

Do not tumble dry, just line dry of dry flat after smoothing down on a flat surface with your hand. If however, you want them naturally creased just twist the water out and allow to dry still twisted. If you do this every time you wash them the indigo will wear away from the creases - voila! A naturally aged pair of jeans.

Denim is a wonderful fabric and is ideal for extensive wear and all the grit you can throw at them. Jeans love to live with you, ageing and getting better with time and wear. So next time you're about to wash your jeans, take a minute, and try to remember some of these tips so you can get the best from your denim .

Denim Muse Monthly - Alexa Chung

This month while we hang on the "edge of cool"  who better than the eternally cool Alexa Chung to feature as our first denim muse. A bonafide style icon of her generation, Alexa Chung has been influencing a generation with her distinctive and classic style choices.  

Alexa is a denim lover like us here at The Denim Eye, and joins us in our belief that denim is the cornerstone of any wardrobe - from wardrobe staple skinnys to vintage cut offs and effortsley cool pinafores we've seen her in it all. Her flare and influence for style, saw her move into design with SS15 hailing the launch of her first denim collection in collaboration with L.A. based denim brand, AG Jeans. Chung created a collection of cool collection of 21 pieces, creating in her words her "dream denim wardrobe". 

Salutations to this British denim style icon. 

Close Up: Purist - Japanese Denim

Niche Japanese denim brand Kioto uses raw rigid denim for you to personally wear in.  Do not wash for as long as possible - even up to a year.  The denim will wear in naturally with the starch dissipating over time and the indigo wearing off in the shape of your body.  Making the jeans perfectly yours.

©TheDenimEye2016

©TheDenimEye2016

©TheDenimEye2016

CLOSE UP: Purist - MiH Jeans Jacket

With authentic detailing neat shaping and copper logo buttons this MiH jacket has everything including the best denim in a dark wash which can be further washed and worn down in time.

CLOSE UP: Purist - Raw rinsed denim shirt

Raw rigid denim shirt from MiH Jeans. Has a raw rigid look of dark denim with white weft grinning cleanly through with the unusual benefit of softness and comfort of a washed denim.

CLOSE UP: Purist - Raw Denim

Short cropped neat flares in raw rigid stretch denim from J Brand Jeans. Worn with a raw rigid original shirt from MiH Jeans.